I was at Barneys New York the other day and overheard a customer passionately protesting against the severance between Céline and the house’s much-lauded designer Phoebe Philo. That was not the first time I heard such opinions since Philo announced her departure.
Though I’m pretty sure the professional decision was mutual, the fact that not only do average customers remember a designer by her full name but also reacted strongly at normal appointment rotations as such is extraordinary. One doesn’t even need to see Philo’s designs to experience what legacy she left behind after her 10-year tenure. And that in itself is a tremendous thing.
Among the numerous collections Philo designed at Céline, the SS18 and succinct Fall 18 – the last collection Philo fully oversaw, may be my favorites so far. In that sense, leaving on such a high note is indeed apt. Among her signature drawstring closings, work-attire-inspired suits, and an numerous oversized and minimalistic silhouettes, this cropped tailored jacket with exaggerated shoulder pads and fabric ties, and its matching retro-inspired loose-fitting pants with turn-up hems are two of my top picks of all.
Paying homage to Philo’s heritage or not being an individual choice, those latest seasons at Céline are nevertheless worth checking out. A few other pieces I picked out will come to the blog soon. The conversation is to be continued.
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